Spain and France 2016

Arriving in Aix-en-Provence


Dining with history

May 23, 2016 | evening

Our initial introduction to Aix-en-Provence is less than stellar. The ancient city wasn’t built for cars…thousands and thousands of cars…and French drivers…and GPS systems with time delay requiring you to make multiple passes down one lane streets built for horse drawn carts. I’m still not convinced we don’t owe the car rental company a new hub cap…but there was no visible damage so we will keep that between us.

The apartment is every advertised, including the 4 flights of stairs Andree lugged the luggage up while I went to park to the car. The rooftop balcony overlooks a good portion of the city, including the historic church tower of Saint-Jean-de-Malte, a few blocks away. A perfect spot to enjoy our wine and unwind from the drive from the Luberon.

It’s Monday so most of our choices are limited to the Cours Mirabeau, the main street of Aix, where people have been sitting for over a century on the patio of restaurants watching, or being watched.

Les Deux Garcons, established in 1792, is one of those establishments. A place where artists and historical figures like Cezanne, Churchill, Piaf, and Picasso dined and where today’s rich and famous like Sophie Marceau and George Clooney visit today.

According to the historical notes the restaurant kindly hands out some of the significant events in Aix-en-Provence history can be tied diners having coffee at the restaurant, including the revolution of 89 and the planning of the Festival of Lyric Art after the conclusion of World War II. Knnow for the rude waiters and being a bit of a tourist attraction we decide, what’s one tourist restaurant as compared to another and least this one is steeped in history (and to be honest, the waiters were less than rude…not nearly as attentive to us as to the two young girls who walked in after us…but far from rude).

A stop in for a Guinness (to keep up with my goal of visiting an Irish Pub in every country I visit) and its time to move on to another day.






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